A Little Taste of Spain in Chicago

The Presentation

The Muga family has been making wines for centuries in Rioja, Spain.  Their current facility, in Barrio de La Estacion of Haro, is over two centuries old and houses over 14,000 barrels of French, American, Hungarian, Russian and a small amount of Spanish oak.  Their wines are oak fermented, oak stored and oak aged.  They even do their own cooperage.

The vineyards are located at the foot of Montes Obarenses in Rioja Alta where they enjoy a combination of Mediterranean, Atlantic and Continental climates.  Muga owns 620 acres of vine here, and controls another 370 that are predominantly clay and limestone soils.  The grapes grown are Tempranillo, Garnacha, Mazuelo (Carignan), Graciano, Viura (Macabeo) and Malvasia.  

In addition to their renowned reds, they produce a white and a rose.  The May 2009 Wine & Spirits magazine poll voted them the most popular Spanish wine.  Their 2004 Torre Muga was deemed one of the 10 best wines in the world in 2007 according to Wine Spectator.  The 2006 Rosado received 90 Parker points, deeming it the best rose in Spain and one of the top three in the world.

Their current portfolio of wines is just as impressive.  I had the pleasure of meeting Juan Muga in Chicago this week at the Waldorf-Astoria hotel and enjoying some of his wines.  While the majority of information I am passing along comes from either their website or his presentation on Monday, I have included personal comments on the samples I was able to try.

Imbibing with Juan Muga

The Conde de Haro Cava NV is made of 90% Viura and 10% Malvasia.  The grapes grow on North facing slopes to protect them from the heat and are harvested two weeks earlier than the fruit used for their white wine to keep it crisp.  First fermentation occurs in wood; the second occurs for 14 months in the bottle.  Honey on the nose, with a little banana and raisin.

Muga’s white wine uses the same varietal formula as the Cava but the grapes are double-checked and 50% of the harvest is lost in their quality control process.  This wine goes through a slow fermentation in new French oak and spends 3 months on the lees.  Great alternative to Chardonnay with its golden apple meets guava presentation.

The Rosado is 60% Garnacha, 30% Viura and 10% Tempranillo.  It spends 12 hours macerating, 25 days fermenting in small wood vats then spends 2 months aging before bottling.  Beautiful, light salmon colored rose.  Roses and strawberry on the nose and a surprisingly long finish for a rose.

Enea is the first of the still reds, which is made up of 90% Tempranillo and 10% Viura.   The grapes are grown on the South slope of Sierra de Cantabria just before the brush begins on alternating layers of loam and clay.  They are manually selected before going through carbonic maceration and ending in small wooden vats.

The Reserva is 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha, and a 10% blend of Mazuelo and Graciano.  The wine spends six months in traditional oak vats before being stored 24 months in small oak barrels.  This is followed by a minimum of 12 months in the bottle.

The makeup of the Seleccion Especial is 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha, 7% Mazuelo and 3% Graciano.  It produced using indigenous yeast in oak vats before spending 28 months in casks made from their own cooperage.  It is then fined with fresh egg whites before rounding off in the bottle for 12 months.  Medium ruby wine bearing violets and back fruits; some earth; soft tannins.

Prado Enea is 80% Tempranillo and a 20% blend of Garnacha, Mazuelo and Graciano.  The grapes for this wine, as well as those used in Torre Muga, are picked later for ideal ripening.  It ferments naturally in oak vats without the use of temperature control or added yeast.  Maceration time varies, but is up to 20 days before the wine spends 12 month in 16,000 litre oak vats then 36 months in barrel.  After casking, it is fined with egg whites and spends another 36 months (minimum) in the bottle.  More concentrated fruit; bright blackberry turns earth and leather.

The Torre Muga consists of 75% Tempranillo and 30% Graciano.  The regimen here is six months in wood vats, 18 months in new oak and at least 12 months in the bottle.

Aro is 70% Tempranillo and 30% Graciano.  It spends six months in oak vats before spending 18 months in new French oak.  It ends with 12 months, at minimum, in the bottle.  The showcase wine.  Deep purple with some sediment.  Ripe plum, straw, tobacco, leather.  Very pleasing long finish.

Nebbiolo

Nebbiolo is the reigning black grape of Italy, who overlooks his kingdom daily from his throne in the Piedmont region of Italy.  His two most regal offspring are the wines Barolo and Barbaresco.  These wines are of a fuller body and are loaded with extract, tannin, acidity and alcohol, which combine to make them perfect for aging before they make their regal appearance at your table.

It is a particularly challenging grape to rear.  It is quite particular about its soil and requires exceptional drainage, which is why you often find them growing on south facing slopes.  A moderate climate with cool nights does well by this grape.  It has thin skins and ripens late, which means it needs to have the best exposure to sun.  Nebbiolo’s fussiness has made it difficult for vintners outside Italy to grow with any significance.

The blood line of Nebbiolo runs deep and the Italians fiercely protect the integrity of this varietal.  Attestation that this grape has been responsible for wines of distinction have been found dating back as far as 1235.  Documents found in 1303 dub the “Nubiola” grape as “delightful” and “excellent wine.”  A century later those found cutting down a Nebbiola vine were severely punished with retributions up to and including hanging.

The origins of the name, Nebbiolo, are uncertain, but there are two schools of thought.  The references to royalty illustrate one school of thought and that is that the name derives from the Italian word “nobile,” which means royalty.  The other school of thought is that its name comes from the word “nebbia,” which means fog, which either was attached to the grape because of the frosted appearance of the grape itself or because of the blanket of fog that comes into the region in the fall during harvest.  

Piedmont translates to “foot of the mountain.”  The region is found south of the Alps, predominantly on the steep limestone hills of Langhe.  As stated, the region is perfect for Nebbiolo and it has been difficult for others outside Italy to grow this variety with any success.  Among those who are trying are Argentina, Australia, and California.

The differences between Barbaresco and Barolo have to do with age.  For starters, Barolo is an older wine, historically, than Barbaresco.  The second difference is the time each wine must age.  Barbaresco must spend a minimum of two years aging, one of which much be on oak.  If it is to be labeled “Riserva” it must age four years.  Barolo, on the other hand, must age a minimum of three years, 18 months of which must be on oak, and “Riserva” labeling requires five years of aging.  Both need time in the bottle.  If drunk too early, they taste of bitter chocolate.

Tasting Exercise

Prepare for a night of indulgence and compare a Barolo and a Barbaresco.  As Barolo can be a little pricey, you may try just one.  Either will give you a good taste (literally) of what Nebbiolo has to offer.  You may also find a Nebbiolo d’Alba.  Choose also to contrast one of these wines to one produced in another country.  Do you agree they are just not the same?    

On The Label

Nebbiolo, Barolo, Barbaresco

It The Bottle

Red fruit, black fruit, floral, sweet spice, earth, vegetal, game - “tar and roses” is a term often attached to the aromatic profile

At The Table

Red meat, aged cheese, mushrooms

Photo Credit: clipartpal.com

Port

Port is a fortified wine.  Fortified wines are wines where spirits - usually grape brandy - are incorporated.  This addition of alcohol kills the yeasts and stops fermentation before all the sugars are gone.  The wine then moves to barrels where they are aged up to 40 years.  Port was created so that wine could survive long ocean voyages.  They can be made with either red or white grapes.

Port takes its name from the city, Oporto (Portugal), from where it has been shipped for a few hundred years.  Production occurs over 40 miles downstream from the vineyards in Duoro where there are three subregions.  The vineyards in Baixo Corgo produce the lightest wines, Cima Corgo is where most of the top vineyards are found and Duoro Superior, while planted more sparingly, is also a source of quality Port.  

Each year authorities dictate how many grapes may be used for Port with the remainder being turned into still wines.  Twenty-nine varieties are recommended for use in the production of Port.  The best known reds are Tinta Roriz (which is the local name for Tempranillo), Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Cao and Tina Barroca.  Better known whites are Sercial, Verdelho, Malvasia Fina and Viosinto.

There are four major categories of Port.  Ruby Port is deep in color, fruity and ready to drink.  It may taste similar to some sweet wines you may have had.  They will be labeled "Ruby Port,” "Reserve Ruby Port,” "Late Bottled Vintage(LBV)" or "Traditional Style LBV.”  Reserve Ruby Port is a blend of multiple vintages that is aged in cask up to five years.  A Late Bottled Vintage, or LBV, is made from a specific year’s vintage and is aged four to six years before bottling.

Tawny Port is paler, browner and smoother with complex nutty aromas.  A Tawny with Indication of Age will be labeled either 10, 20, 30 or 40 years.  It is important to know that the age stated is not the actual age, but is an average age of the vintages inside.  These Ports must state the year of bottling.  With age, the palate has changed to walnut, almond, caramel and coffee.  Colheita is a rare, single vintage Port with a minimum of eight years of aging.

Vintage Ports are the longest lived of all of the Port wines and are intended to do most of their aging in the bottle versus the cask.  They are bottled between 18 months and three years.  Any producer can declare a vintage and the wines will be blends of grapes from their finest vineyards.  Single Quinta Vintage Ports are made from a single top quality vineyard and the name of the quinta (estate) appears on the label.  It is tradition with some to gift a newborn with a Vintage Port from his or her birth year to save until adulthood.

White Ports are, of course, made with white grapes.  They are golden in color and will be off-dry to sweet.  They will spend three to four years in cask before bottling.

Tasting Exercise

Choose a Ruby Port to compare with a Tawny Port for this exercise.  This will give you a very good idea of what basic differences there are between the two styles.  If you know you already like Ruby Ports, compare a standard Ruby to a Late Bottled Vintage.  You may also find it interesting to compare a standard Old World from Portugal to a New World port wine.  Australia has some good samples on the market. 

You may wish to invite a friend or two over to help with your experimentation but, if you don’t, it is okay as they will keep awhile.  If you do invite friends, either keep them around for a bit or advise them to bring a designated driver, as the alcohol content in Port ranges between 18 and 20%.

If you find that you are a fan of Port, there is a “Port Appreciation Society” on Facebook where members can share old favorites and new discoveries.

On The Label

Port, Late Bottled Vintage, Colheita

In The Bottle

Ruby:  Red fruit, dark fruit, dried fruit

Tawny:  Caramel, nuts, vanilla, dried fruit, creme brulee

At The Table

Ruby:  Desserts, Chocolate

Tawny:  Hard cheese, dried fruits, nuts (my absolute favorite - almonds), chocolate, nutty desserts

"for a new generation of port drinkers"

Photo credit (Port Wine, above): http://rundangerously.blogspot.com/2009/10/vintage-port-tasting-at-zachys.html

Rhone Valley Reds and GSMs

The Rhone Valley is located in Southeast France between Burgundy and Provence, which is on the Mediterranean coast.  There are two distinct areas - the North and the South, which have two distinct climates.  The North has a continental climate enjoying warm summers and cold winters, wherein the South benefits from a Mediterranean climate.  The “Cotes du Rhone” classification of wines encompasses both.

In Northern Rhone, Syrah is the sole red grape with its high pigments, high tannins and cherry and plum flavors.  Three white grapes - Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne - are allowed in the wines of some of the Northern crus to add aromatics.  Cote Rotie allows up to 20% Viognier with its peach, apricot and white flowers to be added to the blend.  Saint Joseph allows up to 10% Marsanne and/or Roussanne, whereas Hermitage and Crozes-Hermitage allow up to 15% of these grapes to be added.  Cornas must be 100% Syrah.

Wines from the Southern Rhone are typically going to be blends.  There are 27 varieties in the region, 21 of which can be used in “Cotes du Rhone” wines.  Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre dominate.  Grenache is used for its berry fruit flavor to make it easier on the palate, Syrah for its color and tannin to increase character and help with aging, and Mourvedre for added tannin (structure) and acidity.  The wines may also be blends of different methods of fermentation (oak versus stainless steel or cement) or of fruits of different aged vines.

There are several crus in the Southern Rhone, but none as well revered as Chateauneuf-du-Pape.  The name translates to “new castle of the Pope” because the one of the popes to call Avignon home when the papal palace moved from Rome fell in love with the village and built a summer home there.  Only 13 varieties are allowed in the blends.  Together they produce full bodied and fragrant wines with concentrated fruit flavors and characteristically higher alcohol content.  Winemakers here use mostly large oak containers versus the smaller barrels so that the oak does not overpower the fruit.

A wine dubbed “GSM” is, as you can imagine, a blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre.  This acronym originated in Southern Australia as a more user-friendly, and shorter, alternative title to “Southern Rhone Blend.”  California's "Rhone Rangers" are a group of winemakers producing wines with the Rhone varieties and promoting these American versions.

Tasting Exercise

For this tasting exercise, choose a wine from Northern Rhone to compare to a wine from Southern Rhone.  Alternately, you may choose a Rhone Blend (Southern Rhone) to compare to a New World GSM.  Finally, you may choose to compare two or more Chateauneuf-du-Pape wines.

On The Label

Cotes du Rhone, Cote Rotie, Saint Joseph, Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage, Vinsobres, Gigondas, Vacqueyras, Rasteau, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Lirac, GSM

In The Bottle

Red fruit, dark fruit, dried fruit, spice, sweet spice, cocoa, tobacco, barnyard

At The Table

Grilled foods, barbecue, game, stews, hard cheese, aged cheese

Photo Credit:  http://clipart-for-free.blogspot.com/2008_09_01_archive.html

Ugni Blanc / Trebbiano

Ugni Blanc is a grape that goes by many names, as you will see.  It is a major grape in the production of Cognac and Armagnac in France.  As an ingredient of these spirits, it is called “St. Emilion.”  

It is a vigorous and productive grape of high acid that produces wines with a slightly sour flavor, hinting of citrus and almond.  Besides Cognac, it is a viable ingredient of still wines of the Vin de Pays category. 

As a wine grape, Ugni Blanc makes a presence in Provence and in an area more famous for its reds - the Southern Rhone.  Here you may hear it called “Clairette Ronde.”  It is also allowed as a blending grape in the white wines of Bordeaux, where it has another name - “Muscadet Aigre” - which translates to “sour muscat,” which serves as a reminder of what to expect when tasting these wines.

This variety did not originate in France, however, but in Italy where - you guessed it - it has another name, and that is Trebbiano.  It is even more widely planted there.  Although you may not have heard of it until now, it is responsible for a significant piece of Italy’s white wine production.  

By far, Trebbiano’s biggest home is in Central Italy in the regions of Tuscany, Umbria and Lazio.  It is rarely going to stand-alone here either.  In Tuscany, it is blended with Vernaccia to make dessert wines.  In Umbria, it is a primary grape in Orvieto, where this table wine will be between 40 and 60% Trebbiano.  The white wines you find in Lazio are predominantly blends of Trebbiano with Malvasia, undoubtedly added to increase the alcohol content.  It is also found in Abruzzo.

Within Lazio is a region called - no, I am not kidding - Est!Est!!Est!!!, where Trebbiano wines are also made.  Rumor has it that a German Bishop named Johann Fugger had to go to nearby Rome for his coronation.  He sent an assistant ahead of him to mark “Est!”, which means the wine is good, in chalk on the doors of the inns with the best wines.  Apparently, when he hit Montefiascone, the wines were so good, he wrote, “Est!Est!!Est!!!” on the door.  The name stuck.

 Tasting Exercise

For this exercise, find yourself a Vin de Pays, which should show “Ugni Blanc” on the front or back label.  Chances are very good it will be a blended wine, so try to find one with a high percentage of this grape.  While I don’t normally like to recommend a specific wine for these tasting exercises, Domaine de Pouy makes a great one.  Grab an Orvieto for comparison.  You may also find an Australian Trebbiano or a South African Ugni Blanc to throw in the mix.

On The Label

Ugni Blanc, Trebbiano, Orvieto

In The Bottle

Citrus fruit, green fruit, red apple, wet stone, almond

At The Table

Seafood, shellfish, poultry, pasta


Photo credit (sour grapes):http://home.comcast.net/~toy-addict/HTML/sscclipartsour.html

2010 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Hits Chicago

Chateauneuf-du-Pape, a Southern Rhone AOC, translates to “new castle of the Pope.”  History tells us that the second Pope to call Avignon home after the Papal Palace was moved from Rome fell in love with the place and built a summer home there.  It is just as easy to fall in love with their wines, and it was no different for me at the tasting of the Alain Junguenet Selection of the 2010 vintage held Monday, January 16, 2012 at Benny’s Chop House in Chicago.

Chateauneuf-du-Pape wines are authorized to use up to 13 different varieties in production to apply the AOC.  The three dominating names are Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre.  Grenache is used for its berry fruit flavor, Syrah for its color and tannin, and Mourvedre for added tannin (structure) and acidity.  The wines are full bodied and fragrant, with concentrated fruit flavors and characteristically higher alcohol levels.  Winemakers here are creative with their production techniques.  For example, it is not uncommon to see a wine made from a blend of wine fermented in cement or stainless steel tanks with wine that has seen some oak treatment.  Oak used here is largely going to be previously used so as not to mask the fruit flavors of the wines.

While there were many great samples present, the following represent my favorites of the day, by producer.

Chateau-Fortia:  This estate has been making wine since the 17th century.  Lawyer, proprietor and wine grower Baron Le Roy de Boiseaumarie was nominated in 1923 to draw up guidelines all producers in Chateauneuf-du-Pape were to follow.  These guidelines later served as a base on which the AOC system was drawn and Chateauneuf-du-Pape became the first official AOC in France.  With such rich history, you would expect their “Chateauneuf-du-Pape Rouge ‘Tradition’” would deliver the most expressive sample present.  It did not disappoint.  Medicinal, dark cherry and barnyard aromas were followed with a complex and truly traditional long finish.  The formula here is 60% Grenache / 40% Syrah.  It was difficult to move on....but I had to.  The “Cuvee Du Baron” followed with its barnyard floor meets lavender.  It drank like there was an aromatic white in the blend, but it is 45% Grenache, 40% Syrah and 15% Mourvedre.  We ended with the “Reserve Speciale.”  At 85% Syrah, 15% Grenache there was a great deal of red fruit up front.

Domaine Olivier Hillaire:  Olivier’s winemaking career began nearly 30 years ago and was polished while working for his then father-in-law at Domaine des Relagnes.  When the estate was sold in 2005, Olivier was able to retain control of the best parcels to create wines under his own label.  The grapes from these coveted parcels hit the glass in the 100% Grenache “Les Petits Pieds D’Armand.”  There is a beautiful nose on this wine, with deep notes of violet, dark cherry and plum, ending in another long finish it is hard to walk away from.  His 90% Grenache, 10% Syrah “Cuvee Classique” offers a little softer wine, with delicate violet and the 80% Grenache, 20% Syrah Cotes Du Rhone Rouge“Vielles Vignes” has a lighter body, a little barnyard and all the aromas of the other wines, just not as intense.

Taking a break with Daniel Chaussy

Mas de Boislauzon:  Daniel Chaussy and his sister now represent the fifth generation making wines at this estate.  While not clear knockouts, the four wines presented do pack quite a punch.  The 70% Grenache, 25% Mourvedre, 5% Syrah “Tradition” had a lot on the nose, leading with lavender, and some solid tannin up front.  “Quet,” named after the area’s prior moniker is made from 90 year old vines and consists of 70% Grenache, 30% Mourvedre.  “Tinto” is titled after the area’s old name of Mourvedre and is appropriately composed of 85% Mourvedre, 15% Grenache.    I was so impressed with his Cotes Du Rhone Villages Rouge “Deux Chenes” that I went back for more.  Higher acid and pleasing with violet and raspberry, its recipe is 50% Grenache, 40% Syrah, 5% Carignan and 5% Mourvedre.

My personal favorite wine of the day was the “Feminessance” of Domaine Tour Saint-Michel.  The epithet could not be more appropriate.  Not only is it made by female winemaker, Mireille Porte, but it has a bouquet so amazing I did not want to drink it for fear of ruining the experience.  It did not.  This very expressive example of 65% Grenache, 35% Syrah hails from 70 year old vines and is produced adding another blend to the mix - 50% new oak and 50% year old oak.  Simply beautiful.  

Tempranillo

Tempranillo is a deeply colored wine of low to medium acid and medium tannin.  Although it is non-aromatic, you will still get some ripe fruit on the nose and palate.  Oak treatment will also provide the more complex aromas and flavor Tempranillo wines are known for.

It is a thick-skinned grape that needs a cooling influence and does best on chalky soil.  Its propensity to ripen early is how it got its name.  The Spanish word, “temprano,” means exactly that - early.  It also explains how it gets its somewhat wild flavors.  It is chiefly blended with Grenache or other local varieties, but can also be blended with Cabernet Sauvignon.  It really needs oak to make a quality wine.

I have often heard this varietal referred to as the dirty grape.  It could be because it is less likely to taste first like fruit and more likely to take on more masculine flavors such as game, tobacco and leather.  I suppose we can think of it as the rugged cowboy of Spain's red wines.

Tempranillo is the key ingredient in the wines labeled “Rioja.”  It is the most planted grape in Spain.  Like Syrah in France, Tempranillo is blended mostly with Grenache to add balance.  Where Tempranillo brings the strength, Grenache brings the flavor.  It is also grown in Ribera del Duero, where it is known as “Tinto Fino.”  The wines of Ribera del Duero have even deeper color, higher tannins and more dark fruit flavors than the wines of Rioja.

There are four categories of the wines of Tempranillo here and they are based on aging requirements.  Joven has no minimum aging requirements.  Crianza requires a minimum of 24 months, six of which are on oak.  Reservas age for 36 months, 12 of which are on oak, and Gran Reserva wines age 60 months, 18 of which are on oak.

Outside Spain, this varietal can be found in Duoro, Portugal where it is used in the production of port as well as still wines and goes by the name “Roriz.”  It is also found in Dao, Portugal.  It is found to a small extent in Argentina.  California, Oregon and Australia are also toying with this grape.

Tasting Exercise

Try comparing a Rioja with a Tinto Ribera del Duero.  What differences in style do you notice?  You may choose to compare a Tempranillo of Spain to a Tempranillo of Portugal.  At the risk of sounding redundant or cliche, you may also wish to compare an Old World example to one from the New World.  Maybe even throw in a port.

On The Label

Rioja, Tempranillo, Tinto (if you also see Rioja, Ribera del Duero or Roriz)

In The Bottle

Red fruit, spice, dark fruit, tobacco, game, leather, vegetal

At The Table

Grilled meats, aged cheese

Photo credit:  vector-clip-art.com

Viognier

Viognier is an aromatic variety and it is a grape with high extract, so it is packed with wonderful scents and flavors.  What separates Viognier from other aromatic varieties is that Riesling, for example, has high aromatics that show through right away.  Viognier has low, rich aromatics which means you have to work for it a little bit, but they are deep.  

It is a grape of lower acid, but high sugar, which makes for higher alcohol wines.  In addition to floral aromas bringing late Spring bouquets to mind, Viognier is associated with stone fruits, particularly apricot.

Lower acid grapes tend to do well in warm to hot climates and Viognier is no different.  They are low yielding, which only adds to their flavor concentration.  While most grapes are picked based on their sugar level and balance with acid, Viognier is best picked based on flavor.

Most Viognier wines drink young, but they are capable of aging.  The problem is if you treat them like a Chardonnay, which is a non-aromatic variety, and sit them on oak, it will mask their seductive natural flavors, as will exposure to oxygen.  The choice between using stainless steel or barrels for fermentation makes for very different wines.  Viognier can stand alone or it can be blended with Chardonnay, Roussanne and Marsanne.  Interestingly, because of the aromatics it adds, it is also a blending partner of Syrah.

In France, Condrieu is the wine to look for.  Viognier has the exclusive in this small appellation located in the Northern Rhone.  Another place to look is Chateau Grillet, which was a favorite of Thomas Jefferson.  These wines are capable of aging, but are hard to find and pricey.  On the more affordable side, look for Vin de Pays d’Oc of Languedoc.  Elsewhere in France, you are more likely to find it as a blending mate.  Cote-Rotie is where the Syrah/Viognier blends occur.

In the New World, Viognier can be found in Napa or in the Central Coast of California, where the amount of plantings have been increasing at a fairly good clip.  There is also much buzz about the samples coming from Virginia, and they can also be found in Oregon and Washington.  Outside the U.S., they can be found in Australia, Chile or Argentina.

Tasting Exercise

Try to find an Old World Viognier (Condrieu or some Vin de Pays d’Oc of Languedoc) to compare with a New World Viognier.  If you are unable to find one of each, try to at least sample different regions.  In other words, grab a couple bottles and enjoy!

On The Label

Viognier, Condrieu, Chateau Grillet

In The Bottle

Stone fruit, floral, green fruit, citrus fruit

At The Table

Thai, Chinese, Indian, creamy sauce, soft cheese, root vegetables

Photo credit: http://216.128.26.15/images/grapes/web_char-viognier.jpg

Champagne / Sparkling Wine, Part 2

There is only one method of making Champagne and that is the Traditional Method, or Methode Champenoise.   There are three other methods of producing sparkling wine that can be employed elsewhere.  These are the transfer method, the tank method and the asti method.  The rest of the world may still choose to make wine in the traditional way but, as we have already learned, cannot call it a Champagne.  Whatever method is chosen will have an effect on the aroma and flavor profiles of the final product. 

To make wine in the traditional method, only two pressings of the grapes are allowed before the first fermentation.  Pressing is the manner in which the juice is extracted from the grapes.  It occurs exactly as it sounds.  A still wine is produced and may be used alone or may be blended with another still wine of a different grape or from another vintage.  After this base wine is produced, a mixture of sugar and yeast (liqueur di tirage) is added.  The wine is then bottled, where it will go through a second fermentation. 

After an appropriate amount of aging occurs, the bottles are placed in racks neck down.  For six to eight weeks thereafter, a person known as the Riddler (Remueur) turns each bottle a slight and modestly downward until the sediments are resting in the neck of the bottle.  What then follows then is degorgement, where the bottle necks are dipped into a solution that freezes them.  Once frozen, the temporary cap is removed and the settled particles fly forth from the bottle. The final stage is dosage.  This is where the wine's sweetness level is determined, when a mixture of wine and sugar is added before final bottling. 

When the transfer method is used, all the steps of the traditional method are employed, until the riddling stage is reached.  Instead of going through that process, the bottles are emptied into a pressurized tank where the wine is filtered then rebottled.  This method makes it easier to maintain consistency bottle to bottle and will maintain most of the quality of a traditional Champagne, but at a lower price.  The label may give you a clue that this method is employed if it says, “Bottle Fermented.”  This is to distinguish it from a traditional method wine that may say, “Fermented in this Bottle.”

With the tank method (also called the Charmat method), fermentation takes place in a stainless steel tank.  These tanks are sealed to prevent carbon dioxide from getting free and yeasts can be easily filtered out without interrupting the fermentation process.  Since the yeasts are filtered out, these wines will be lighter and will show more of the fruit’s varietal character than those fermented in the bottle.  Wines made in the traditional method will have more contact with the yeast during fermentation, so there will be a more bread-like (yeasty) aspect to these wines.  It is also a less expensive method of production and the prices of the ultimate wine will reflect that.

The asti method does not begin with the production of a still wine.  The freshly pressed juice, or must, is stored near freezing until it is ready for production.  Once “called,” the must is warmed and placed in pressurized tanks for fermentation until the alcohol level reaches 7 to 7.5%.  The wine is then chilled, filtered and bottled for immediate distribution.

Champagne may control the name, it does not control the market.  There are several delicious sparkling wines made around the world, using several different grape varietals and going by different names.  Outside Champagne, but still within France, these gems are called “Cremant.”  Germany and Austria produce “Sekt.”  Spain makes “Cava.”  Italy is famous for a few breeds of nose-ticklers.  “Prosecco” can either be “spumante,” which is a standard sparkling wine, or “frizzante,” a lighter sparkling example.  The other is Piemonte’s Asti DOCG, where fruitier, sweeter wines reign supreme.

Tasting Exercise

For this exercise, choose one wine made in the tank method and one made in the traditional method (which should be marked, "Methode Champenoise,” "Methode Traditionnelle,” "Metodo Tradicional,” etc).   Sekt, Asti and most Proseccos will be made from the tank method.  Cava, Cremant and, of course, Champagne will be made from the traditional method.  In the New World, the bottle should tell you if the traditional method is used, as it is a great marketing tool.  Try to stay within the same sweetness category.  

How do the wines contrast in flavor?  Can you taste the yeast in the classic method wine?  Pay attention to the size of the bubbles in each; how long do they last?  They should live longer with the traditional method.

On The Label

Champagne, Sparkling Wine, Cremant, Cava, Prosecco, Sekt, Spumante, Frizzante, Lambrusco, “Bottle-Fermented”, “Fermented in this Bottle”

In The Bottle

Green fruit, stone fruit, mineral, chalk, bread, nut

At The Table

Aperitif, oysters, caviar, sushi, fried food, egg, fruit

Photo Credits:

Couple w/Champagne - http://www.lordprice.co.uk/DRCC1012.html

Riddling - http://www.exploratorium.edu/cooking/webcasts/process/images/5-riddling.jpg

Champagne / Sparkling Wine, Part 1

Be careful not to put your foot in your mouth when discussing these wines.  A wine labeled as “Champagne” MUST come from the Champagne region of France.  The quickest way to show you are a novice is to refer to a sparkling wine from California as “Champagne.”  Unfortunately, this occurs quite often.  You may use the term, “Sparkling Wine,” when it comes from anywhere outside Champagne.

Located north of Burgundy, we can easily surmise that the climate of Champagne is a cool one.  The soil here is chalk, which helps reflect the sunlight to the grapes during the growing season.  Its natural conductive properties keep the vines warmer in winter and cooler in summer.  When drinking Champagne, if you pick up on a bit of chalkiness, know that it is a derivative of the soil and not a faulty wine.  

Champagne is made predominantly from one, or a combination, of three grapes - Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier or Pinot Noir.  Chardonnay and Pinot Noir we already know as white and black, respectively; Pinot Meunier is also a black grape.  Within Champagne, there are five subregions with different specialties.  Cotes des Blanc uses Chardonnay, Montagne de Reims likes Pinot Noir, and Valley de la Maine (Epernay) uses Pinot Meunier.  The last two, Cotes des Sezanne and Cotes des Bar, use all three.

Sparkling wines made with white grapes are called Blanc de Blanc, which means “white of whites.  Those made with red (black) grapes are Blanc de Noir, or “white of blacks.”  Rose Champagnes or sparkling wines are made either by allowing the wine to sit on the skins a bit longer to extract some color ow by adding a small amount of red wine.  

When choosing a grape for sparkling wine production, high acid and low sugar are key.  To understand why, you need to know a few things about winemaking.  First, during fermentation sugar is converted to alcohol.  Therefore, low sugar equals low alcohol.  Second, alcohol kills yeast.  When the yeast is gone, fermentation stops.  Finally, sparkling wines go thru a second fermentation.  Yeast is necessary for this additional process.  As such, low alcohol ensures enough yeast is around to finish the job.

If the bottle is labeled as “Vintage,” this means that it contains only grapes picked during that particular year.  A “Non-Vintage” is going to consist of grapes of several different vintages.  In fact, it really should be dubbed “Multi-Vintage” to avoid confusion.  Since a wine will only be labeled “Vintage” if the weather conditions - and thus, the yield - of that particular year are exceptional, these wines are going cost more. 

Sparkling wines from areas outside Champagne may or may not have such strict regulations as to their required ingredients.  While you may very well find one or more of the three grapes present, you are also likely to find other local varieties.  To give you some examples, the Loire Valley will use Chenin Blanc.  Germany will use Riesling and/or Gewurtztraminer.  Sparkling wines of Italy will include Muscat, Brachetto or Glera (Prosecco); where Spain uses Xarel-lo, Macabeo and Parellada.  Australia is making sparkling wines with Shiraz and the United States likes to use the traditional grapes, but also may include Pinot Blanc.  

There are seven styles, or sweetness levels, of Champagne and sparkling wine.  They are as follows, starting with the most dry: Brut Nature (next to no sugar), Extra Brut (really dry), Brut (dry), Extra Dry (semidry), Sec (semisweet), Demi Sec (sweet), Doux (really sweet). Most of what you are going to see on the shelves will be Brut, Extra Dry and Demi Sec.

Before you start uncorking any new purchases, we should talk a little bit about the proper method of opening a bottle of Champagne or sparkling wine.  The pent-up carbon dioxide inside can lead to some unfortunate accidents if you are not careful.  Make sure the wine is chilled well before you start and do not ever point the bottle at anyone or anything you don’t want broken.

To begin, place a kitchen towel or serving napkin next to the bottle.  Make sure the bottle has been well-chilled.  Then, remove the foil.  Fold the towel over the top of the bottle and, with your thumb on the top of the bottle, loosen the cage, but do not remove it.  With the top of the bottle in one hand, maintaining a firm grip on the cork, and the bottom of the bottle in the other, begin slowly turning the bottom of the bottle.  Never remove your thumb from the top and always point the bottle away from danger.  The pressure inside will push the cork out.  If you really want to open Champagne like a professional, practice until you can remove the cap with only a hiss, not a “Pop.”

Tasting Exercise

If you are not yet sure which sweetness level you prefer, choose one Brut or Extra Dry and one Sec or Demi Sec for this tasting exercise.  If you're already confident you like dry wines better, choose one each of the first two.  If your sweet tooth carries over to your choice of wine, try one each of the last two.  Note how they compare as you go along the sweetness scale.

On The Label

Champagne, Sparkling Wine, Blanc de Blanc, Blanc de Noir

In The Bottle

Green fruit, stone fruit, mineral, chalk, bread, nut

At The Table

Aperitif, oysters, caviar, sushi, fried food, egg, fruit

Photo credits:
Foot in mouth - http://hellosunshine.org/wp-content/uploads/2007/10/footinmouth.jpg
How to open Champagne -http://topcultured.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/12/howtoopenchampagne.jpg

Riesling

Riesling has a bad rap with many wine drinkers, who often think of it strictly as a sweet wine. While several are made that way, there are many not-so-sweet versions out there. Products of Riesling include dry, medium and sweet wines. Some are even capable of aging due to the grape’s higher acid level. You may even see some on oak.
The grape itself is an aromatic one with higher sugar levels, which does not help its reputation. While not as intense as some others we will get to later, you will often detect floral notes when whiffing this varietal. It is a very hardy grape that ripens late. Like Pinot Noir, Riesling is also very expressive of the soil type in which it grows. It does its best in moderate or cool climates.
Wines of different climates are going to be somewhat different in aroma and flavor. In Rieslings, for example, green apple and fig will be detected in cooler climates, peach or grapefruit is typical of moderate climates and tropical fruit is a common clue of a hot climate wine of any type. This is easy to remember if you think of what fruits fare mostly from the subject climate. Although this variety does not do well in hot climates, you will find some winemakers giving it a shot anyway. While honey notes may show in Rieslings of any climate, it will really show in the warm climate wines.

Germany, where the grape originates from, is famous for its Riesling. When buying quality German wines, there are two important classification terms to become familiar with. “QbA,” or Qualitatswein bestimmter Angaugebiete is a basic sample of quality wine that must come from one of 13 qualifying regions, or angaugebietes. The next level up is “Pradikatswein,” or Pradikat wine. Pradikat is a wine of distinction from a qualifying region. Within the quality classifications is another system of classification with whom you should also become acquainted. This classification is based on the must weights (the amount of sugar in the juice) of the grapes at time of harvest and serves as a general guide of the order of sweetness. You should be very careful, however, as a wine from any of the first three categories can be dry.
Since fermentation turns sugar into alcohol, a slightly more reliable guide is to look at the alcohol level on the label. The higher the alcohol, the lower the sugar; but, again, this is only a guide. They will start around 7%. If you are looking for a drier wine, do not go any lower than 10% abv. At the beginning of this classification is Kabinett. These grapes were picked at a normal harvest. They can be dry or sweet but should be delicate, light bodied aperitif wines. Spatlese is a late harvest wine. They can be dry or sweet but should be more concentrated and have more body. Auslese are from extra ripe bunches of individually chosen grapes. While they, again, can be dry or sweet, you are going to get riper fruit characteristics. Since I am one who does not like my Rieslings cloyingly sweet, I am able to remember the order using "KSA" or "Keep Sugar Away."
From this point forward, you can count on the wines being quite sweet. Beerenauslese (BA) are made with select berries that will often have noble rot on them. Do not be frightened by the term “noble rot.” Botrytis, as it is otherwise called, is a perfectly acceptable mold that develops on the grapes, which dries them out and makes for some wonderfully concentrated sweet wines. Sandwiched in the middle is Eiswein, or Ice Wine, wherein the grapes are not harvested until they have frozen on the vines. Hanging around this long leads to some serious ripening and, thus, higher concentration and sugar levels. Because there is no rot involved, the wines will show their pure fruit characteristics. Finally we have Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA). These wines are only made during select vintages, are quite sweet, and will always be affected by noble rot. Due to their rarity, they have a high pricepoint.
Regions of Germany to look for are Mosel, Rheingau, Rheinhessen and Pfalz. Mosel will have the lightest in body, where Rheinhessen will show fullest. Rheingau will give you the best chance of finding a dry example; Pfalz for sweet. If dry is your thing, look also outside Germany. Great Old World Rieslings can be found in Alsace, France and Austria. In the New World, look to Clare Valley or Eden Valley in Australia, the South Island of New Zealand (Marlborough) or the Finger Lakes region of New York.
Tasting Exercise For this comparison, choose one wine from a cool climate (Germany, Alsace, New York or New Zealand) and one wine from a moderate climate (Australia or Washington). You will not only be looking for differences in aroma and flavor, but also for differences in color and, possibly, sweetness. See if you detect any petrol, which can develop in Rieslings from warmer regions. Although I would recommend you choose both wines with the same approximate sweetness level (and I would pick either dry or off-dry), it may be fun to try some sweeter examples. Consider a comparison among the different must weight categories.
On The Label Riesling, White Riesling
In The Bottle Green fruit, stone fruit, citrus fruit, floral, mineral, petrol
At The Table Pork, fowl, shellfish, Thai, Indian, spice, salt, soft cheese, salads, dessert

Photo Credits: Riesling Scale - www.klat.com German Wines - http://www.germanwineestates.com/113d044e0.jpg

Learning About Wine One Grape (or so) At A Time

It was while preparing study materials for my first formal wine class that I realized the industry makes learning about wine much more difficult than it should be. Most people who are interested in wine do not care about how it is made or what type of soil makes for the best Merlot. They care about how it tastes, what they like, how to buy it and what to choose from a wine menu.
It did not take me long to notice that, even though I had made a conscious decision to take my wine knowledge to greater heights, while in class I found myself watching the clock through lecture waiting for the time when we put the books away and started tasting. While it is certainly important for someone in the trade to know about regions, climate and soil, most people just want to get down to the business of discovering their own tastes - likes and dislikes.
What I also found is that nearly every wine course, whether it be formal classroom or via the “over-the-counter” book, is organized by region, not by grape variety or type of wine. However, when a customer goes into a shop looking for wine, nine times out of ten they are asking, “where are your Malbecs” or, “can you recommend a good Malbec,” versus, “where are your wines from Mendoza?”
I am not saying it is a waste of time to learn that a Pinot Noir from California is going to taste more like red fruit and less like earth than the same grape from Burgundy. Once you find that you like Pinot Noir, this is an important distinction. If, however, you find that you just don’t care for Pinot Noir as you much prefer the fuller-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon, the difference between a Pinot from Paso Robles and one from Oregon means nothing.

The characteristics of the grape itself are much more important when it comes to pairing with food as well. For example, most of us know that Chianti is present on nearly every Italian restaurant menu in the country. You may think that is because Chianti is an Italian wine. This is only partially true. Chianti is made from the grape, Sangiovese, which has a high acid level. Tomatoes, which are a staple ingredient in many Italian sauces, also have high acid level. This complement is why they work. Now, if you are stopping at the market to pick up ingredients for tonight’s spaghetti and they don’t have Chianti, or any Italian wines for that matter, what do you do? You are inclined to grab a Cabernet, because you read they are also being grown in Italy, but the match up will be a disaster. The high tannin levels of the Cab will clash with the high acid of the red sauce. If you know, however, that Pinot Noir also has a high acid level, you will be much happier with your pairing.
So get out there and start learning about wine one grape (or so) at a time. Get to know your wine merchants and, “get thee to a tasting.” Find what grape you like first, then start exploring the regions they do well in. The next step is to take note of the key words on the bottle that will tell you what is inside. If you find that you like a French style of Merlot, know the names “Pomerol” or “St. Emilion.” If you find that you don’t care for Merlot at all, don’t waste the brain space.

Photo Credits:
One grape at a time - http://media.tumblr.com/tumblr_l99f8snhSp1qz7tyk.jpg
Girl confused - http://media.tumblr.com/tumblr_l99f8snhSp1qz7tyk.jpg

Grenache (Garnacha)

For a grape that was once the second most planted red in the world, few have ever heard of Grenache. It is a variety that is packed with fruit flavor, specifically red fruit. It also has low tannin levels which makes it a very easy wine to drink. It is also easy to look at with its intense ruby color. This grape contains high levels of sugar, which makes for wines with higher alcohol levels. Because they tend to oxidize quickly, they are great candidates for screwcaps, no matter which side of the fence you are on in that debate.
Grenache has thinner skins, buds early and ripens late. This longer hang time leads to more concentrated flavor. They are tolerant to drought, which ensures they do really well in hot climates, although you will also find Grenache growing in some moderate climates. They make still red wines, roses and “white” wines, in the manner of White Zinfandel or White Merlot, where a limited amount of time on the skins leads to wines much lighter in color.
Garnacha, as it is known in Spain, is the most planted red grape in that country. Spain is going through a bit of a wine revolution right now, focusing on perfecting what is working and getting rid of what is not so that they can establish a greater international presence. What does this mean as it relates to this grape? In the past, Garnacha wines were mostly made in high volume (i.e. inexpensive) versions. Now, many high quality Garnacha can be found. They can stand alone or they can be blended with Tempranillo, Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon or Syrah. Spain’s most popular product of Garnacha, however, is rose.

Navarra and Rioja produce blends or roses, but Priorat is getting a lot of attention recently. The last few decades have seen a great deal of investment and change in the region and it is one of the first two to be awarded the prestigious DOCa status. A group of producers have been working to revamp long neglected terraces on the steep slopes of the vineyards in this region. The local soil, llicorella, is low in nutrients which makes the vines work harder and, thus, produce a more concentrated fruit. This, of course, transcends into a more concentrated wine.
While Syrah may take center stage in the Northern Rhone, Grenache takes over in the Southern Rhone where the temperatures are higher. While sometimes Grenache stands alone here, it will often be blended with Syrah, Mourvedre or Cinsault. The main appellation to look for is Cotes du Rhone, but the very best, and pricier, samples are found in Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Lesser priced, but still good quality, wines can be found in Gigondas.
Outside Europe, Grenache wines are being produced in Paso Robles, California and South Australia. In fact, if you can tolerate the name, “Bitch” wine from Barossa Valley is an easy-drinking 100% Grenache listed by Robert Parker as a value red. It makes a great gift for bachelorette parties or girlfriend birthdays.
Tasting Exercise
Find a Garnacha from Spain for your base comparison. A contest with France would be nice but 100% Grenache is quite difficult to find. A Cotes du Rhone is quite likely to be a blend, but Grenache will be the dominant grape, making up 75-80% of the wine. Priorat is worth a splurge for comparison as well. These wines may not be 100% Grenache, but the grape is a constant ingredient. If you would rather, compare it to a New World Grenache from either California’s Central Coast (Paso Robles, in particular) or South Australia. You may find also find a Grenache Blanc or Rose for contrast.
On The Label
Grenache, Garnacha, Gigondas, Cotes du Rhone, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Priorat
In The Bottle
Dark fruit, dried fruit, spice, sweet spice
At The Table
Barbecue, beef stew, goat cheese, hard cheese

Photo Credits:
Grenache wine - http://leitesculinaria.com/9604/writings-michel-chapoutier-wine-tasting.html
Priorat - http://www.citytoursbarcelona.com/priorat_wine_district.html